In early 2007, ten surfers, four from Australia and six from the UK decide to charter a boat in the Indian Ocean with the instruction to travel-guide, ??take us to places never surfed, where tourists haven’t dared to venture. In April 2008 this dream became reality. After months planning, Anthony Colas, an experienced surf guide from the Basque region of France was chosen to guide us through the Southern Atolls of the Maldives. After spending one day and one night in the grim mini Manhattan that is Male, we set sail. Twelve hours of motoring later passing through some of the most stunning seascapes imaginable we arrived at our first anchorage, the Meemu atoll. After a quick change of clothes our milky white bodies were thrown into the water for a quick surf before sunset. This was our first chance to acclimatize to the heat of the Indian ocean.
Anthony attempts to calm our concerns, ” don’t worry, the surf break is over there, its that dot in the middle of the Indian ocean”.
After a restful night sleeping under the stars we were greeted by the most amazing sunrise and a display by a local pod of dolphins.
With the ocean starting to become calm a decision was taken to motor further south towards the equator and the more exposed reefs of the Thaa atoll. By this stage I was beginning thinking that I had died and gone straight to Heaven. The journey south was through some of the most beautiful, unspoilt seascapes I had ever seen, lush palm fringed islands, crystal clear coral reefs, a mirror smooth sea and not a soul for miles around.
The Thaa atoll gave us our first chance to surf in waves that resembled a giant aquarium. On catching a wave hundreds of parrot fish would quickly flee the reef above which you were surfing. The refraction of the crystal clear water gave the impression we were only surfing inches above razor sharp coral, this combined with the fact we were hundreds of miles from nearest medical help left most feeling a little uneasy when surfing in the first week.
For the next two weeks every day would follow the same surreal routine. A sunrise shout by the first person to wake up was followed by a 2 hour sunrise surf (most of us found the only way to wake up was jump overboard from the top deck). Then a ‘wolf’ whistle from the crew anchored in the channel announced breakfast was ready. After a short rest, another surf for two-three hours followed by a beautiful lunch caught fresh from the sea by our cook. An after lunch rest or read was then superseded by ANOTHER surf until sunset. Our evening meal was usually conducted in near silence as most of us were too shattered to talk.
A generous statement by the captain of free beer as a recompense for a broken air conditioning generator seemed wonderful offer at first, but after one sleepless night in cabins that resembled the steam room at my local health club a decision was made by most of us to sleep under the stars on the top deck!
After several days surfing the perfect waves on the south eastern edge of Thaa atoll, Anthony our guide recommended we travel three hours south to one of the few inhabited islands on the Atoll. A wonderful afternoon was spent surfing in front of the spectacular palm fringed island succeeded by our first introduction to authentic Maldivian culture. Nearly all the Islands in the thousand strong island chain are Muslim. And each island would seem to follow a similar layout of perfect grid pattern streets, a mosque, a community centre, a general store, a football and volleyball pitch and bizarrely a mobile phone mast. The locals were shocked to see our grinning European faces. We were now hundreds of miles from the nearest holiday resort. Even more surprising was when one of the fishermen said the magical words ‘Manchester United’, tonight on television. So there we were at 11.45 p.m, laying down in a concrete hut with only coconuts for refreshments watching the champions league! Paradise!
A true desert island!
We soon learnt that each island has a function within the atoll. Some islands are used like the one below for growing vegetables for the region and subsequently only have a population of a handful of people, others support the thriving line caught tuna fishing industry like the one above, while at least one Island in the chain will provide medical facilities.
On the first friday afternoon of our trip a boat laden with local Maldivian surfers appeared from one of the neighbouring islands. This was our first contact with other surfers for more than a week and was also due to be our only one during our entire stay. It was humbling to watch them surf in jeans on a mixture of broken boards and boards without surfboard wax. Surfing without wax, now that takes some balance!
With our spirit of adventure now firmly ingrained and our surfing confidence increasing we decided to head further south again to explore the Gaafu Atoll. Gaafu Atoll is only 60 miles north of the equator and home to one the most intimidating waves in the region, Yin Yang.
Although the take off on the wave is pleasant, the wave then accelerates over a razor sharp coral reef forming one of the most powerful waves in the region. Any mistake here is rewarded with a trip to the local hospital (which luckily is situated on the adjacent island). From my experience of surfing around the world I have always found that if I have any doubts about the reef I’m surfing on, the best solution is to swim amongst waves with a mask and flippers. At least that way I know what the hazards are. Even from underwater and behind the wave one can see how the wave breaks, like a cylinder sucking water from the reef.
The photograph below illustrates a lovely story. Nick is 49, an Osteopath from the south coast of England, and this was his first ever surfing holiday. So after hearing the frightening accounts of what could happen to him if he collided with coral, Nick decided to watch from the sanctuary of the boat. After all it was looking like he could make a small fortune from treating the wounded. But frustration got the better of him and after two days of watching, Nick decided to paddle out to the waves. This is his first wave, an absolute screamer.
Our surf guide Anthony was very keen to emphasis the dangers of surfing the infamous reef, paradoxically minutes after this photograph was taken Anthony didn’t heed his own advice and got pitched head first onto the reef resulting in 12 stitches and a very serious head injury!
Anthony still smiling but very concussed after his accident. The bloody opening in his hat shows where is head crashed into the reef.
This photograph looks like the aftermath of the Tsunami, but is actually one of the main changes that will take place to the Atoll in 2009 with the opening of the first tourist resort ,the Olhuveli village. I suppose this underdeveloped wilderness had to change one day. I just hope the local community benefit from the proposed $600 per night 5 star resort. The concrete posts lying in the water will later be used to support the wooden bungalows so sort after by wealthy tourists from China.
The Asian Tsunami had a devastating effect on the Maldives. Over ten thousand people lost their lives and many more lost their ability to grow vegetables with so much of the soil infected with sea water. Fortunately some of the islands are now starting develop vegetable plots for the first time since the devastation.
The south west monsoon usually arrives in late May but unluckily for us the rains and the strong winds commenced in the last few days of our voyage.This still gave me wonderful opportunities for photography because, despite the inclement weather above the water, below the water the visibility remained stunningly clear.
My main photographic subject for the last few days were the children from the neighbouring island, many of whom would spend hours diving off the top deck of adjacent fishing boats.
This was intended to be a once in a lifetime voyage, the only problem is I want to do whole journey again, and straight away.
